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Jenny Packham’s 2012 designs range from tangy, orange dresses to taupe jumpsuits. Some have criticized her aesthetic for being too sweet. To me, her collections simply have an energetic point of view--one that alternates between feminine indulgence and restraint.
Her spring collection, full of breezy fabrics, celebrates womanhood—and that flute of bone that looks good on every body type. Here, the materials flow in universally appealing shapes.
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In her fall collection, she does not abandon these fabrics, but restrains their silhouettes. Worn on lip-lined, pompadour-ed models, her fall clothes have a severe subtext. They are still sweet, yet also powerful, with a distinct wartime sensibility. Through both collections, Packham touches upon a multitude of fashion influences--including 1940s noir, Victorian Gothicism, and Lisa Frank.
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Packham’s aesthetic touches my heart.
As Sarah Joynt writes, her fall collection is a “story of shoulders.”
Certainly, shoulders never looked so good.
